Tag Archives: Surfing

Surfing

To surf might be
The nearest thing
To time travel

Calves stretched taut
Eyes trained to shore
Toes dig for traction

Arms paddle
Waves roar laughter
Foam and spray

On my heels
I push the board
Into the ocean

A viscous layer of water holds
Threatens to sink
Under pressure

The ocean humors me
With names
For my actions

Surfing. The deep water knows
What we do
It alone allows

The shallows where I float
Have curled
For none

And I feel
The immense wave
A thousand armies strong

Lifted I soar
On my feet
My toes curl

Grip the wax edge
Of the long board
And I’m surfing

The moment
In between
Lost

As every wave
On the ocean’s mind
Wiped clean.

California I’m In

California┬áhere’s you
As I know you
Rooftops, late nights, everyone

With a story, people claiming
Their name is Midnight
Wanting their story written

It’s always a movie, the bars
The art, every waitress
West of the freeway every

Waitress north of orange county
With headshots and a treatment
Every loft with a renovation

On promise, every short film
With a chance for my big break
And a free cookie, every Craig’s list ad

For a new and barely used sofa
And a roommate in the valley
Or a poolhouse cabana but please

No smoking, a yoga mat rolled
Under their arm and a joint
Rolled under their breath

Wanna get some air
And a free magazine in the lobby
You probably have to pay for it

Soon and parking behind the building
With the chance nobody’s aware
These parking guys are there

Charging for parking
And a traffic cop on the Metro
And none on downtown streets

Purple- shirted city patrollers
Turned life counselors
For the endless homeless

And beaches that stretched
Into beaches and parties
Where corn chips and salsa

Made it know this was their turf
And a beach fire and a sun tan
And a frisbee and a jeep

Surfboard optional but at least
Know how to stand up bro
A spare couch to crash upon

And sometimes spare surf boards too
Usually a story of how you got out there
Or else a story of how you were born there

Or grew up there or moved there so long ago
You can’t remember anything
Anything but the glow of the tans and the smiles

You can’t remember anything
Anything but the ocean, the ocean, the ocean
As the waves roll in, that’s the state of California I’m in.