To surf might be
The nearest thing
To time travel

Calves stretched taut
Eyes trained to shore
Toes dig for traction

Arms paddle
Waves roar laughter
Foam and spray

On my heels
I push the board
Into the ocean

A viscous layer of water holds
Threatens to sink
Under pressure

The ocean humors me
With names
For my actions

Surfing. The deep water knows
What we do
It alone allows

The shallows where I float
Have curled
For none

And I feel
The immense wave
A thousand armies strong

Lifted I soar
On my feet
My toes curl

Grip the wax edge
Of the long board
And I’m surfing

The moment
In between

As every wave
On the ocean’s mind
Wiped clean.

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